In our hypothetical scenario, despite the carbohydrate-heavy diet, caloric excess and a lack of exercise would not be things that happen, ever.  But a healthy lifestyle does not guarantee health. And it is not possible to be self-sustainable with regard to medicine. With that being stated, medicinal herbs do exist, and they do work. And since I am writing this series from my point of view, I would like to mention three that I consider essential and extremely helpful. For all three, I did look up studies on PubMed in the past, and although there are not a lot of them, to my amateur eye, it looks like they are proven to work to some extent. I am including quickly found links today, too, although I need to stress that I am not a physician and this article is not meant as medical advice.

So what health problems could arise that need to be addressed frequently-ish, but do not necessarily need professional medical attention?

First thing would be minor scratches, cuts, splinters, and suchlike. I have a lot of scratches and cuts on my hands and legs. Most heal without me even noticing them, but a lot of the work involves soil, and thus some get inflamed (which is why I am up to date on my tetanus shot). And for minor inflammations, there is nothing like hot chamomile tea, IMO (-click-). In my experience, soaking an inflamed area in chamomile tea as hot as is bearable cuts the healing time by several days, and reduces the pain to almost nothing within minutes. I also occasionally get sniffles bad enough that my stomach gets upset. In that case, drinking a chamomile tea also helps to clean the tubes and restore lost appetite.

The second thing happening probably on a regular basis would be a sore throat, sniffles, and suchlike, from exertion in cold weather. Most would resolve without a problem, some could become a mild strep infection or viral infection if the conjunction of pathogen presence and bad weather is just right (bad). And some of those can become bad enough to need antibiotics, which only a medical doctor can prescribe. I know I have a bad case of sore throat coming when I get a craving for elderberry tea, made from black elderberry juice (Sambucus nigra). I absolutely loathe the taste of elderberry juice, hot or cold, but when I get sick, I get a craving for it that I never get for anything else. It helps (-click-), sometimes to the point that I do not need to go to the doctor after all. However, once I heal, I go back to hating elderberries again. I haven’t drunk elderberry tea for over two years now, but I do keep a stock in my cellar just in case.

And the third often appearing problem would be bruises, sprained ligaments, slightly banged-up-but-not-yet-broken bones, as well as stress fractures, and, of course, back pain. In this regard, comfrey root is your friend (-click-). I am either using store-bought creams or an alcohol-based infusion that I made a few years ago, and I apply them directly to the affected area.

All these could be easily grown in our self-sustainability scenario. An elderberry bush could be part of the fruit shrubbery. Cammomile, once introduced, would probably thrive quite well as a weed that would need more to be managed than harvested. And comfrey could be grown anywhere near the compost heap, in half-shade and with plenty of water. In addition to the medicinal use of its roots, comfrey leaves are also a great nitrogen source for composts.

I did other work too since the last post, but today I have sown the soybeans. Which, as you might remember, is the first time I am trying out this crop at all. Theoretically, I am a tiny bit too far north and a tiny bit too high up for it to prosper here, so there is a huge question mark over this endeavor. I tried to read up on it, and allegedly, tiny seedlings should be frost-resistant for a while. The current weather projection for the last frost of the spring is 8 May, so sowing it today should not be too early. It is the variety “Liska” that, according to the interwebs, grows in Canada. We shall see- even if the seeds do not completely ripen and dry on the stalk, I should still get unripe but edible green seeds similar to green peas.

First, I had to use a string and a hoe to mark the rows on the plot where potatoes were grown last year. I got eight rows, a nice number. Whilst doing that, I collected nearly a full bucket of stones.

The stone hoard behind my shed keeps growing. Shame it is worthless and, mostly, useless.  I do not think I will need this much gravel anytime soon. I have done all the concrete and paving works that needed to be done. Now, I just keep pouring buckets of stones on the growing pile.

After I was done sowing, I watered it thoroughly with water from my sewage cleaning facility. The weather is way too dry this year so far, and I am hoarding rainwater like Scrooge McDuck coins.

Since I expanded my growing operations significantly (by at least a factor of three over two years ago), it is no longer possible for me to water everything with watering cans. I had to use a pump and a hose last year already, but I had to stand there like a scarecrow for the whole time. Which was boring and also a huge waste of time.

So this year, I bought a cheap adjustable lawn sprinkler. To be able to water taller crops too, and slightly increase its scope, I rigged it on a ca 1 m tall pole that I can stick in the ground. In 20 minutes, it covers an area of circa 4×4 m with an equivalent of 10 mm rainfall and can be moved to the next piece of land. It is a significant labor saving, albeit at the cost of some electricity. At least I can put it in place, set a timer on my phone, and go do something else while it is doing its thing, thus using my time more efficiently.

Tomorrow I will sow some leftover peas and soybeans, and I will plant gladiolus bulbs. After that, I will be done with sowing and planting until the last frost day, after which I will do the rest.

I finally finished what I started last year – I filled my third rodent-proof raised bed with a mix of sieved soil, sand/coal ash, and biochar. The garlic in the first bed seems to be doing well so far, so I hope other plants will perform OK as well. In the meantime, I was left with a patch of bare land, where the sieved components were heaped over winter. I did not plan for that – I wanted to fill all three beds in the fall, before my injured back threw a stick into the spokes of that particular plan.

So what’s best to do with a completely dead lawn? Convert it into a vegetable patch, of course. It was a matter of just a few hours with the garden fork to till it all. It is a relatively small patch, just about 11 m². And as you can see, I already harvested a full bucket of stones from it.

This is heavy, compacted clay, so even when tilled, the lumps held together rather strongly, and despite rainy weather, they were still a bit hard. I have thrown on it all the rest of my last year’s compost pile that was not used for the potatoes. This will add a lot of organic material that should, hopefully, attract enough earthworms to break it all up over time.

However, earthworms will need years of burrowing through it, and I would very much like to grow something in there this year already. This area was not planned for, and I already have enough legumes in my plans to not need another patch with them, so I decided to put butternut squash here. I have more than enough viable seedlings of those. However, all squash dislike compacted,  clumpy soil, so I threw four buckets of biochar on the lumps. That should lighten the soil a bit, hopefully.

And the last step was to use the electric hoe to break up the clumps as much as possible and mix the compost, the biochar, and the clay together. Before I plant the squash plants, I will probably work some fertilizer into the soil as well.

This means that this spring, I converted 90 m² of useless lawn into arable land. Let us hope it will be productive and useful. It was a lot of work.

Let’s tie the tangent with the main series again and talk about seeds.

For many crops, self-sustainability with seeds is perfectly doable, as long as a few precautions are observed. I will illustrate some of those precautions with various crops.

There are multiple species of edible beans; probably the most important are runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus) and common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris). The species do not hybridize, but they both have multiple cultivars. And here the first care needs to be taken – in any given season, only one cultivar of each species should be grown to avoid cross-pollination. Otherwise, the cultivars lose their properties and, for example, one ends up with neither white nor red beans, but with black ones with white spots. Also, bush beans can cross-pollinate with climbing beans, resulting in freaky plants with unpredictable growth. Thus, if multiple cultivars were to be grown together, it would not be possible to save seeds for the next season. But dry beans and canned bean pods both have a long shelf life when stored properly, so it should not be a problem to grow one variety per species per year and still maintain a good variety of colors and shapes.

Potatoes do not hybridize and produce seeds; they are grown from cloned tubers. In theory, it is possible to keep growing different varieties together in perpetuity, as long as one manages to keep the tubers separated. And herein lies the problem of volunteer potatoes. Those are plants that grow here and there from tubers that were accidentally left in the ground from the previous season. A tuber the size of a pea can survive in the ground and the next year produce tubers the size of a fist. And even with crop rotation, it can happen that these volunteers spread underground, and thus the varieties get mixed up a bit. It would never be a big problem, but it can lead to slight inconveniencies, like firm salad potatoes getting mixed in with soft potatoes for mash.

Spelta, wheat, oats, and other grains are generally grown in stable varieties, so saving one’s own seed should not be a problem.

Peppers and tomatoes are a bit tricky. There are stable varieties, and the plants mostly self-pollinate, so it is possible to save seeds. However, cross-pollination is possible, and thus contamination can occur when multiple varieties are grown together. Moreover, there are multiple F1 hybrid varieties that do offer significant benefits, with one downside: saving seeds is impossible, and they need to be bought. Overall, it might be best to find one-two varieties that work best in a given environment, and ignore the rest, if saving your own seeds is a must.

Pumpkins are a headache. There are multiple species, each with multiple varieties, and the species can hybridize together, producing infertile and/or freaky offspring. If wild gourds are in the area, they can introduce genes producing bitter tastes, etc. Saving one’s own seeds is thus inadvisable, unless one pays care to isolate desired flowers, prevent insects from accessing them, and pollinate them manually.

All these problems or lack thereof apply to a wide variety of plants, so a 100% seed self-sufficiency is not as easy to achieve as one might think. But it is possible for the main foodstuffs grown on the five big fields with minimal effort.

Well, the title gives it away, dunnit. This year, I have the exact opposite of the problem I had last year. At least as far as pumpkin seeds go so far.

My mom watched a TV show about gardening where they said that lufa has a low germination rate and very long germination times. She then encouraged me to watch it, and that spurred me to put 9 lufa seeds to germinate on a wet paper towel a few weeks ago already. 8 of them germinated in three days. Now I have trouble finding a space for the plants that is not so warm that they grow too much, not so cold that they stop growing completely, and also light enough so they do not get thin and stretched out.

After last year’s debacle, where butternut and Hokkaido squash seeds did not germinate for weeks, and had only about 50% germination rate when they did, I put a lot of different seeds to germinate this year, and early. I had an over 90% germination rate so far, including for the leftover seeds from last year, which were 1-after expiration date and 2-from the same supplier that was so troublesome. I only put those to germinate with the assumption that they most probably will rot anyway. WTF???

I had to relocate some of these squash seedlings to the only south-facing window in our home, which is in my parents’ bedroom. The hibiscus flowers that were there will have to do with a few weeks of inferior lighting. I will have to put cardboard with aluminium foil behind them so they do not stretch towards the window as much. But I had to do it, since I needed space under the grow lights for tomatoes.

And there are 20 butternut seedlings in the greenhouse, near the pepper plants, which are in the soil already. I am doing my best to keep temperatures above 10°C in there. I built a miniature charcoal burner from an old T chimney pipe segment that I had lying around in my scrap metal pile. Every evening I burn about 1 bucket of charcoal to heat 40 l of water to steaming hot, and I put it in buckets near the plants. So far, it seems to work; the pepper plants seem unbothered. We will see if those 20 butternut seedlings amount to anything. We have right now a bout of rainy and cold-ish weather, so even during the day, the greenhouse is still a bit cold. However, I am not going to complain about that, the rain was sorely needed.

 

To connect this series with my regular gardening a bit, let’s talk about fertilizing the fields and garden beds in a self-sustainability scenario.

A bit of the topic was already mentioned here and there in previous posts, but there is definitely more to it than I have written so far.

First, let’s assume that the solid sludge from the sewage cleaning facility is recycled back into the environment via composting instead of being taken out to be treated elsewhere. Dealing with shit is not pleasant, but it is an essential part of agriculture. Second, all the wood ash from heating would need to be recycled back into the coppice and the fields. Third, all other waste – manure from the animals, inedible biological leftovers etc. would have to be composted. Building up enough organic material in the soil fairly quickly should not be a problem.

Yet still, some outside inputs might be necessary from time to time.

Depending on local geology, calcium could be a problem in two different ways.

If the bedrock is too rich in it, then the problem might be that the groundwater cannot be used for watering the plot too much, because it would alter the soil chemistry. And some plants (like blueberries) could not be grown.

With geology close to my real-life garden, however, calcium inputs would be necessary, at least in the beginning. Once good levels in the soil and the environment overall are established, it might not be necessary anymore. Hens will happily eat crushed eggshells and crushed bones, thus recycling the calcium and making it bioavailable fairly quickly.

The second nutrient that could be a problem is sulphur. An anaerobic septic tank can convert some organic sulphur into elemental sulphur, and thus reduce its bioavailability to the grass in the subsequent gravel bed. And it would also be depleted by burning the wood from the coppice. Some sulfur would return with rainwater, but it might be needed to supplement some plants that need more, like garlic and onions.

Nitrogen is also lost in all stages. Whenever a stink occurs, nitrogen is lost (and sulphur too). In an ideal scenario, the legumes should fix enough of it to keep the growing going more or less indefinitely with proper crop rotation. Still, occasionally it might be advisable to add some to boost the harvest, especially at the start, before a buffer in the pantry is accumulated to account for dips and outright crop failures.

AFAIK, potassium and phosphorus are not depleted by offgassing during decomposition or burning, so they might need to be added only in the beginning to jumpstart the system. Once that is done, they will be recycled through the sewage cleaning and ash nearly perfectly.

A 100% self sufficiency is possible in this regard, but having the ability to get some inputs from outside reduces the reliance on nature’s lottery a bit.

 

This year, I decided to fertilize all my little fields, vegetable patches, and greenhouses. The biggest one is the newly established, 60 m² field where I run the Three Sisters experiment last year.

Fertilizing this plot of land will consist of growing legumes this year. An approximately 1,5 m wide strip was sown with green peas, a ca. 4 m wide strip was sown with yellow peas, and the rest was sown with alfalfa. I had to use planks to do it; the ground was extremely wet at the time.

I will harvest the green peas for canning, I will let the yellow peas ripen and dry in situ (if the weather allows it), and I will probably mow the alfalfa once with a scythe, and a second time with the lawn mower. The current plan is to leave most of the biomass in place, and till it under in September. After that, I intend to sow it with spelta.

The oats started to poke out of the ground, which makes me happy. I did not fertilize this plot at all, but I will do so with lawn fertilizer in due course. The reasoning is that since oats are grass, a lawn fertilizer should be adequate and not harmful.

For potatoes and fruigetables I bought organic granulated fertilizers that should release the nutrients slowly over the vegetation period. For the potatoes, I just estimated the ammount and I have spread it on the patches before planting the tubers. For tomatoes and peppers in the greenhouse, I weighed the amounts more precisely, and at the lower end of the recommendation written on the packaging. In a greenhouse, too much fertilizer is more harmful than outdoors. I will also fertilize the pumpkins and squash patches.

I watered the greenhouse thoroughly after I applied the fertilizer. I don’t have any tomato plants yet to put there, but I do want to jumpstart the soil biology before planting. And I do have three bell pepper plants that successfully overwintered, and I would like to put them back into the soil asap.

 

It is the time of the year when a gardener has so much work that it is impossible to take a proper rest. And today the time has come to plant the main crop of this year, the mighty potato.

It was only this year that I learned the term “chitting”, i.e., sprouting the tubers before planting them into the ground. I do not actually do that on purpose. The potatoes do that by themselves, and they force me to go along with it.

About a week and a few days ago, I noticed that the potatoes were sprouting, so I took them out of the cellar, sorted them out of the mesh bags into crates, and I put them outside in my tool shed. There they were protected from night frosts, but the temperature was a few degrees lower than in the cellar, so the growing stopped. And during warmer days, I actually took them outside, and I laid them out in the shade so the tubers get a bit of light. That way, the sprouts remain short, thick, and relatively strong, instead of becoming long, spindly, and brittle.

When doing this, I also noticed the differences between the varieties. The red varieties Bellarosa and Camel have white-pink colored sprouts. Dali has yellow-white sprouts. And Agria had sprouts of an interesting purple-lilac shade that I forgot to take a picture of.

I managed to plant both yellow varieties today. They went into the ground and will be hilled up. The Agria is an indeterminate variety, and I remembered from the past that Dali can also make more than one layer of tubers when hilled up. So both of these should benefit greatly from being planted deep and subsequently being hilled up with soil.

Tomorrow I will start planting the Bellarosa and Camel varieties directly onto the lawn.

The house in our map would need to be as close to being passive as possible, reducing the need for heating in the winter and cooling in the summer as much as possible, yet it is substantially large for just one person, and there is a reason for that. Let’s start a bit in detail from the bottom up.

Preferably, the cellar would need to be accessible from both outside and inside the house and consist of at least three rooms. One would be the boiler room, with a high-efficiency, modern wood stove, central heating with hot water storage of at least 2000 l, and enough storage space for fuel for two weeks in case of extremely bad weather. That way, the stove could run at peak efficiency just a few hours every other day, saving both fuel and labor. Then there would need to be a separate, cold, dark cellar for storing all the canned goods, and another, even colder cellar, for storing potatoes and other veggies.

Above ground, the living space would be situated at the north wall, preventing overheating in hot summer. And the south wall room would be the last growing space contributing to food production, a solar greenhouse. Not a tropical greenhouse, but one that does not freeze over due to a combination of utilizing most of winter’s weak sun and residual heat from the living quarters. Such a greenhouse would be ideal for starting sensitive crops with long vegetation cycles (butternut squash, lufa, cucumbers, peppers, etc.), as well as a choice of useful, non-frost-resistant spices and herbs (chilli, rosemary, basil, bay leaf, etc.). And lastly, in a sufficiently large greenhouse of this type, even in my climate, it would be possible to grow a few small, but really important trees and bushes – tea or coffee, and a few citrus trees. It would not be possible to produce enough coffee or tea for a serious addict, but it could be enough for an occasional treat. A large-ish lemon tree could provide an important canning ingredient – citric acid.

The attic would serve two purposes – it would need to be higher than the greenhouse to provide a chimney effect during an extremely hot summer, allowing the hot air to escape the house and draw in cooler air through the cellars. And it would be a storage space for all the seldom-used junk, as is the usual case.

Did I forget something?

The new garlic variant Dukát that I planted in the new raised bed started to poke out of the leaf mulch, so I scraped the mulch away so the plants have light. Also, the leaf mulch was sometimes too compacted, and the plants had trouble getting through. We shall see how this turns out. I will definitely use fungicides this year to try to protect this crop, since garlic is one of the most expensive crops that I grow, and I like it.

The ten cloves of garlic Janko that I planted from last year also all poked out of the ground.

That means they were at least healthy enough to not rot over winter. We shall see if they grow. I would very much like that, the variant is tasty, and it made huge cloves that are easy to peel.

Other than that, I continued to do some heavy work whenever the weather allowed it, until I was forced into a pause yesterday, when strong western winds brought with them rain, snow, and eventually frost. I did manage at least to prepare some of the potato patches. I have approximately 400 potatoes to plant, which means I need somewhere around 130 m total length of rows.  I am nowhere near that; it will be a lot of work.

For the Ruth Stout method, I started to prepare the lawn by spreading rows of last year’s mixture of moss and soil, together with some rotten grass from the last mowing of the lawn in 2025. I will plant mostly the early potatoes Bellarosa and Camel in here, and since both of those are red tubers, I will put two rows of the yellow early variety Dali between them to keep them separated. For the Dali, I will plant the smallest tubers here. The bigger ones will go into deeper soil for better results.

The patch between the big greenhouse and the bamboo patch is deep, sandy soil, not the natural soil around here, but one that I created over decades. It is not ideal, but it is easy to work, and I will plant the variant Agrie here, because it is an indeterminate variety which should benefit from the depth and sufficient hilling. On the south side is this year’s attempt at growing spinach. I have sown half of a 50 cm strip with spinach seeds, and the other half with pre-grown spinach plants.

The patch in front of the entrance to the big greenhouse, where I grew butternut pumpkins and red beets last year, will also be planted with the variant Agrie.

Most of the Dali variant will go on the elevated mound, where I tried unsuccessfully to grow peas and wintering onions last year, and successfully grew outdoor tomatoes under a shelter. I will try the tomatoes in the same patch again, after supplementing the soil with compost and fertilizer, and the potatoes will go on every available bit of soil around it.

This year, I will use commercial fertilizers on all my crops since a lot of this soil is still far from optimal. I am planting 30 kg of tubers, and unless I get at least 300 kg in return, I will be sorely disappointed.

 

Pets are out of the question in our particular self-sustainability scenario with one singular exception (see later). Dogs and cats are carnivores and would add a significant burden on the need to produce animal protein. A working barn cat would be useful by keeping down the voles and mice, etc., a bit, so that option might be worth the hassle of having to increase the rabbit production a little, but on a small plot like this, the cat would spend most of its time somewhere else anyway (speaking from experience). So IMO not worth it.

But I do count on having five egg-laying hens in our scenario, producing about 1000 eggs a year. And those could also be pets. A friend of mine has bought retired egg-laying hens, with the intention of having them lay eggs for a year and then killing them for meat. His wife took to observing them after work (first mistake), started to recognize their individual traits (second mistake), and gave them names (third mistake). At that point, she became opposed to the idea of killing and eating them, so they were allowed to live until natural death. And AFAIK, they continue to do this still, about ten years later. The hens still provide them with eggs, and they live comfortable and happy lives until death. They are not cuddly like cats or dogs, but they can get affectionate and entertaining.

From spring to fall, five hens should be able to find enough food in the coppice, with occasional supplementation with kitchen scraps. Hens can and will eat virtually anything, although they prefer insects and small animals. In the winter, they would require feeding, but it should be possible to grow enough surplus to keep them alive through winter with a combination of food scraps, cracked grain, and boiled potatoes/potato peels (there will inevitably be some potatoes that are not fit for human consumption due to pest damage) mixed with shredded and boiled alfalfa hay. It is also not unreasonable to expect more walnuts than one person can comfortably eat, and hens will love those in winter.

Rabbits or guinea pigs would not be pets in this scenario; they would be meat. Their whole purpose would be to eat plant parts inedible to humans and convert them into something edible. They can be omitted entirely in favor of pet hens, but the plot will thus inevitably lose some efficiency by using all excess plant material (and there would be plenty) just for composting.

Like the hens, the rabbits should be able to graze in the coppice throughout the summer with the chickens, since they eat different stuff. The water cleaning facility, the fallow field, the coppice, and the orchard should provide enough plant material to make hay for winter to keep one buck and two does alive through winter. In the spring and summer, there should be enough surplus plant matter to get at least 10 kg of meat out of their offspring.

With rabbits, there would be a need for outward input – vaccination. Without it, a deadly outbreak of myxomatosis is inevitable at some point, again, speaking from experience.

10 kg of meat and 1000 eggs would provide about 90 Mcal, getting the total to 954 Mcal, enough to keep an active person alive.

Pests are another problem. The hens would help a bit with pest control by devouring any insects that travel through the coppice. But mice, rats, and voles would be a problem. Hens will kill a vole or mice if they catch them, but they are not particularly good at catching them. In my opinion, the best self-sustainable way to keep these pests under control would be to strategically put bucket traps baited with walnuts. And subsequently killing all captured rodents and feeding them to the hens.

What slugs and bugs get onto the veggies anyway can be in part destroyed manually, and in part by homemade insecticides. For that purpose, growing a few potted chrysanthemums would be necessary to make an insecticide spray if needed. Daisies growing anywhere in the garden should be cherished, because they can serve in this capacity, too.

To someone uncomfortable with killing animals of any kind and in any context and for whatever purpose, I do not recommend attempting food self-sustainability. Whatever spiritual connection one feels to fellow living creatures, that connection is inevitably strained beyond breaking point when said creatures literally threaten one’s survival by destroying their only food source. It is easy to be high-minded about this when the food comes from the supermarket. It is less easy when it comes from hard work and a yearly gamble with nature.

I tilled the whole big patch on which I tried the three sisters system last year and a bit more.

I had to use a garden fork, because the tractor is not powerful enough to cut through long-established turf. And most of this soil was undisturbed for about a hundred years, if ever. And parts of it were compacted by the honeywagon driving over it once a year when emptying my septic tank. However, on that front, I found out this spring that I can convert it into proper vegetable patches, because the honeywagon has a long enough trunk to not need to drive directly over it. Thus, I tilled even more than I initially intended – a rectangle approximately 10×6 m. In the first picture, it is almost all done, and I took that picture when fighting the compulsion to make the edges tidy. I lost that battle, and the day after, I spanned a string along the edges, and I did make them nice, straight, and precisely 6×10 m.

I had a race against time when flattening it with the electric hoe. The weather forecast predicted rain, and I wanted to finish flatterooning it before it came. As you can see, I did not manage it. I did flatten most of it, but I could not manage to rake out the big lumps of grass from the last three meters or so. Now it will be a bit harder to do that, because it is all wet. And the wetness also makes sowing it a bit more difficult, because this is heavy, claggy clay that sticks to everything, mainly the soles of one’s boots.

Since I can use it to grow food, I do not actually need to sow it with alfalfa as was my initial plan. I will sow part of it with green peas, and the rest will be sown with alfalfa anyway. This is because I had to remove a lot of organic material when tilling and flattening it, and because the soil is not of particularly high quality. I have grown legumes on it last year, and another year of doing that should improve the soil further.

However, I won’t let the alfalfa grow for several years and use it for compost. I will chop and drop it in the summer, and till it all under in September. Since I disturbed the soil, shredded the turf, removed all dead tree roots (from my late cherry tree), and several buckets of stones, I should be able to use my tractor for that.

At this size, it is not a vegetable patch but essentially a mini-field. Therefore, I would like to grow grains on it next year. Either spelta, oats, or both.

Despite some grumbling about how the rain did not politely wait until I was finished with my work, I was glad for the forced pause today. My whole human hurts, from top to bottom. The good news about that is that I still did not hurt my back; I am just extremely tired. The remedy for that is simple.

In our hypothetical plot map, there are two areas designated for producing mainly fruit – the fruit shrubbery along the south border of the fields, and the small 12×10 m orchard. Let’s look at what fruits would be, in my opinion, most useful in a self-sufficiency setup. First, the orchard.

The orchard is small, but it is big enough for one plum tree, two quarter apple trees, two pears, and some frost-resistant grapes growing on the fences.

Apple would not bear fruit reliably, but when it does, it can be sliced and dehydrated for later use. The most valuable component in apples would be the pectin, because it can thicken into marmalade even fruits that do not do so on their own (like blueberries, raspberries, etc.). And although I did not test it  (because I never needed to), I see no reason why dehydrated apples, rehydrated and blended, should not work too.

Plums and pears would not bear fruit reliably either, but an occasional glut can be processed into something long-lasting – they can be dehydrated, they can be boiled down to fruit butter that will store in jars in a dark cellar for years, and if there is really too much of all of it, they usually contain enough sugar for fermenting and distilling liquor. Which is useless, but…

And lastly grapes (which I would actually recommend on any sheltered south-facing surface available). They cannot be stored, but they contain enough sugar to either be boiled into molasses-like syrup or fermented into wine, so an occasional glut could be made into something that lasts.

Both hard liquor and wine are useless as far as self-sufficiency goes, but they are an indispensable step in making vinegar, and vinegar would be essential for pickling and preserving some of the vegetables. It would require some work, but winter nights are long, and making vinegar is not that difficult.

The fruit shrubbery would consist mostly of small fruits, like raspberries, blueberries, gooseberries, blackberries, currants, etc. These can either be made into jams/marmalades when mixed with apples, or they can be dehydrated for fruit teas.

In this regard, these three fruits would be essential: briar rose, sea buckthorn, and black currant. All these contain so much vitamin C that even tea made from heat-dried fruits contains enough of it to keep scurvy away.

I estimate that all these fruits together should produce approximately 60 kg of fruit per year on average, which would correspond to about 30 Mcal per year.

In the post about the coppice, I mentioned that there should be one walnut tree and a few hazelnuts in there for nuts, instead of firewood. I estimate those would produce about 20 kg of nuts per year on average, adding a whopping 133 Mcal per year. That would still not be enough to keep an active person alive the whole year, the rest would have to make up meat and eggs – and about those, next time.