This part of the 2026 gardening work started actually in 2025, a few days before Christmas. And not only is it the first gardening work of the season, it is also the first experiment.

I found this idea on YouTube last year, unfortunately, after I had already started all my small-seed plants. But since I decided to have one more try at growing my own onions from seeds, I also decided to try out this idea. It is, in principle, very simple. First, wet planting substrate is put in a roll of some sort of rot-resistant material (people were using bubble-wrap, mirelon, or other plastics). I am using old black landscaping cloth. The rolls are then bound together with a string or with a container and sprinkled with seeds on the top.

I switched my yoghurt-buying to big, 1 l buckets, because I have enough of the 500 ml ones and I need the bigger ones too. And their first use this season is to contain the seed snails.

I am trying three varieties, one red, one yellow, and one shallot, and I marked them with popsicle sticks to keep track of which is which. The shallot packet had really few seeds, barely enough for one snail, whereas both the red (č=červená) and yellow (ž=žlutá) had each enough for three.

Everything sprouted nicely so far. After about one month, I will probably try to move these into even bigger pots, or possibly split each snail into two pots.

The idea of sowing small seeds into seed snails is that when the snail is unrolled, one gets a row of tiny plants that is much easier to separate than the tangled mess one gets when simply sowing them in a container. It should be especially easy on the roots. I will also try it for the initial sowing of tomatoes, and maybe even other plants with tiny seeds, yet to be determined.

Making alliterated titles was a fun (for me) exercise, but I do not think I would be able to keep that up for the next year, even if English were not a foreign language. So this might be the last one.

It is winter, so I cannot do much in the garden. But there are works that need to be done, because I did not manage to do them in the fall due to prolonged lower back trouble. I am fine now, so I am trying to catch up, slowly and carefully.

One of the works was to replant the bamboo that I planted years ago as a sort of wind shield for my greenhouse. It grew extremely poorly where I planted it, and it started to sprawl into areas where I did not want it, and it grew strongly there. I took the opportunity of warm-ish weather, and I dug a 4×1 m hole, lined it with old PVC flooring to contain the spread of the plants. Then I dug out all the bamboo plants, and I planted them inside, covering them with enough sieved soil to, hopefully, shield them from frost. If they survive winter, good. If they do not, I will use this area as a vegetable bed in subsequent years. Between the bamboo and my big greenhouse is a circa 20 m² of tillable soil.

Once the bamboo was planted, I tilled (with a garden fork) the rest of the area where I grew potatoes this year. I could not do it with the plough in the fall, because it was covered with a heap of aforementioned sieved soil. This area is circa 30 m², and I plan to plant it with soy beans.

BTW, it was probably working with the plough that caused me the lower back trouble both in the spring and in the fall. In the future, I will have to spread this work over several days to not overstrain myself. I probably should not do more than an hour or so in one go.

I cannot fill the raised beds now because even when it does not freeze, the soil is all soggy and gluey, and I cannot mix it, neither manually nor in the concrete mixer. I have the type of soil where if you start walking over even a small tilled area, you are several cm taller at the end of it. When I was a kid, I once walked home from school several hundred meters over a tilled field. I never did that again; I had to scrape off the soil from my soles every few dozen steps because the shoes became heavy and unwieldy.

I haven’t done much to my main vegetable patch, except digging out lemon balm. I planted it years ago, but I found out I do not like to use it in any way, anywhere, so I decided to liquidate it. This patch is circa 70 m², and it is the best soil I have. It is still clingy when wet, but it has had stones removed from it for decades, and organic material as well as sand added, so in comparison to what is normally here, it is prime estate. I did not till it, and some of the spinach plants are still surviving. If they survive into spring, I might get some small use out of them after all.

Overall, my tilled/tillable vegetable patches add up to circa 170 m² over the whole garden. That is a respectable area. Just like last year, I want to expand my growing ambitions onto the lawn itself. In one area, where I grew beans this year and where the soil is very poor indeed, I am now trying to kill the grass overwinter by covering it with some old rubber and PVC flooring mats. I do not need to till the soil for beans, and I will probably plant them in rows spaced enough to be able to mow the grass between them with a lawnmower. But if I manage to kill the grass now, the planting should be easier in the spring. I do not count this area into my “arable” land yet, nor the area where I will grow potatoes on the grass, just like this year. I do think, however, that I will be able to expand my growing area by a further 30-50 m², just like I did this year, and hopefully till it in the fall without hurting my back again.

A little timeline – the 70 m2 patch was started by my grandfather. I added circa 50 m² last year and 50 m² this year. I would like to keep this trend up as long as I can. I have to plant this area with vegetables and harvest them, but that is not more work than mowing it uselessly every two weeks.

I am still contemplating what to do with the 25 m², where I grew runner beans this year. Once a year, a honeywagon has to drive over it to empty the septic tank in my water cleaning facility. I could plant it with runner beans last year, because the septic was emptied just before that, but I cannot establish permanent vegetable patches there. I am thinking of tilling it manually and sowing it with alfalfa. Alfalfa could outgrow the grass and establish a permanent growth that survives the occasional truck wheel running over it, and whilst I cannot eat it (and I do not plan on having rabbits), it would still fix nitrogen for superb compost, thus I would get a use out of the area. And alfalfa, unlike grass, does not cause hay fever, so I could let it grow taller between the mowings.

I hope you won’t mind if I continue blogging about my garden next year too. There is a lot I learned, and a lot I want to try. And in this post, I shall sum up some of the lessons learned about some crops and how I intend to proceed with them next year.

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Seeds

I already bought most of the seeds for the next year, and I am storing them in my cool, dark cellar for now. I only bought seeds from one producer, the same one with whose pumpkin and tomato seeds I had an excellent experience for years. We shall see if that excellent experience will apply to other plants too. I also bought the seeds directly from the producer to avoid the seeds being spoiled by improper storage or handling at the retailers. The experience with the webshop was excellent.

Onions & Garlic

In the past, I had great success with growing onions from sets, but never from seeds, and garlic used to grow pretty well here. This year, I had no real success with either; quite a lot of the plants were destroyed by some fungal disease, and a lot of the harvest had to be tossed subsequently, too.

Onions are not that expensive to be worth a lot of effort. Nevertheless, I will try them again, but only from seeds. I will plant them in raised beds with more permeable soil, and I will spray them with fungicide, which is, btw, recommended on the seed packets that I bought (it was not on the packets I bought last year).

For garlic, I bought a new variety – Dukát -, and I planted it in the single raised bed that I managed to fill with substrate before the frost came. I also saved and planted 10 huge cloves from the variety Janko, which was the least affected by the fungal disease this year. To prevent contaminating the new raised bed in case these cloves are carrying the disease, I planted them in a tiny 50×70 cm bed that I prepared extra.

Beans & Peas

Beans are one of the most reliable and nutritious crops that I can grow, but very labor-intensive in the spring. I cannot sow them directly into the soil, the growing period is too short for that. And preparing the trellises and starting the seedlings is a lot of work. So the next year, I will try to reduce the labor a bit.

For runner beans, I will probably only grow the white variety. I have 50 seeds, and I prepared 25 permanent trellis poles on the south wall of my house for them.

For ordinary pole beans, I will probably only grow the yellow “Konstantin” variety. To save space, I will probably plant them as a companion crop; however, not with beans or corn, but with potatoes.

Instead of a lot of trellised beans, I will try bush beans in greater numbers, as a companion plant to the pattypan and zucchini squashes. We grew bush beans in the past, but mostly varieties for bean pods. I bought a variety suitable for harvesting dry seeds, because I have reason to think this year’s pod harvest will last us for two years.

I will grow some sweet green peas, and I also bought some super cheap pea seeds to sow as a green fertilizer. Peas do well here, I will try for two harvests.

And something new – I want to try growing soy beans, even though I am a bit too far north and too high up for that to work reliably. The day length could be too long for the plants to begin to bloom in time to produce the pods that fully ripen, and if the weather is cold, it might compound the problem. However, I want to try it, and I bought an early variety (Liska) that might grow here – it does allegedly grow in Canada, after all. I will plant it in the ploughed patch where potatoes were this year, and my reasoning is that even if the crop itself fails, as a legume, it should improve the soil. If it produces seeds but they fail to ripen fully, they still should be edible if they get most of the way there – they just will have to be canned/frozen like green peas, and I will not get my own seeds. And if only a part of the plants produce viable seeds for subsequent seasons, that would be a win too, since I would be essentially breeding a variety suited for my garden specifically. So the way I see it, it should be a win either way; the seeds weren’t very expensive.

Carrots

This crop surprised me this year the most of all, and despite minor setbacks, the only one that surprised me in a positive way. I will try to grow them again as a companion crop with onions, this time in rodent-proof raised beds.

Spinach

The biggest disappointment of this year. I might not grow this crop at all in the future, since this year it failed in the spring as well as in the fall. If I try it again, I will try to sow it into eggtrays first and plant outdoors only bigger and healthier plants. Right now, I have no seeds and no real plans.

Grains

I know corn can be grown here. It was grown for cow feed when I was a kid, directly behind my house; it continues to be grown nearby in Germany, just a few km away, and at the same elevation. And it definitely can get ripe enough for sweet corn, even though usually not enough for saving my own seeds. So I will try again. I intend to plant it in large clusters in the middle of my growing beds. This time on my prime soil – growing it together with beans in the lawn has not worked well at all, although it is hard to say how much of that failure was due to the weather.

And I want to try and grow naked oats because it is the only other grain, after corn, that I can fully process at home.

Pumpkins/Squash

Just like with corn, I know for a fact that pumpkins and squash can be grown here and produce huge harvests, so I shall try again. I plan to grow three varieties in three colors each – pattypan, zucchini, and Hokkaido. I also plan to try for butternut squash again. I will probably plant the vine varieties together with the corn, on the edges of the vegetable patches, so they can sprawl onto the lawn, and the bushy varieties together with bush beans. I will try to grow some of each on a trelisse, to save space.

And since nowI have seeds from a supplier whose seeds have reliably germinated quickly in the past, I hope to avoid the first big problem I had with butternut and Hokkaido this year – very late germination. I will try to get at least two plants of each variety to grow as early as possible, and I will plant the seeds into bigger containers, so the roots do not get restricted too early before they can be planted outdoors.

In addition to all these, I also bought a variety meant for seeds. I like snacking on pumpkin seeds, so I hope it works out.

And the thing I want to try completely anew here is lufa. I did grow cucumbers in the greenhouse in the past with good results, so it should be possible to grow this, too. I am intrigued by the idea of a compostable dish-scrubber, and the seeds are edible, just like pumpkin’s.

Potatoes

The next year, I will buy 20-30 kg proper seedling potatoes. One variety is already decided – Dali – because it can be dehydrated and stored without discoloration. I will decide on other varieties in the spring, but I won’t go with the same ones we grew these last years. And I will plant at least half of them the same way I planted them this year, in order to kill off another part of the lawn and prepare it for cultivation. As I mentioned, I may accompany them with beans, either with pole beans, or with bush beans, or both.

Bell Peppers

The bell peppers were not a huge success, but I do not want to give up on them. I had five plants this year, two were looking miserable, so I tossed them, but three looked healthy enough for me to try to overwinter them.

Tomatoes

There can never be too many tomatoes. They are tasty, nutritious, and expensive. And they can be made into canned goods that last for years. I will try growing tomatoes outdoors under a shelter again, as well as in the greenhouse. I bought different varieties from those that I grew this year. One is an indeterminate yellow cherry tomato that I grew before, and that should work well, and one is a determinate variety that I do not know. I decided to try it out because, according to the description, it should bear fruit early, and it should be especially high in lycopene, making it suitable for richly colored sauces.

Fruit and Nuts

I planted most of my fruit and nut trees, and there is not much that I can do about them now. The harvests with those are extremely dependent on the weather, especially in the spring.

I do want to try something, however – I have two seedlings of Corylus colurna. I want to try and graft Corylus avellana from my neighbor’s bush on it (I asked him if I could take a graft). In principle, the resulting plant should work similarly to Aronia melanocarpa grafted on Sorbus avium, producing a small-ish tree instead of a bush.

I won’t grow raspberries at all; I will topple the whole growth and fertilize it with wood ash to rejuvenate it a bit. I do not need raspberries after this year’s harvest.

I hope to get a usable amount of strawberries from the beds that I established this spring.

Figs, Pomegranates, Grapes, and Citrusses

I won’t cut figs back as much as I did this year, so the harvest might be bigger. I will further prune my pomegranates and keep only a few of the strongest plants. I won’t do anything much about grapes; they look happy where they are and thrive with the care I was giving them.

The citrus trees will probably not survive the winter. They never blossomed, and these last few years, they aren’t even pretty to look at. So I left them in the greenhouse overwinter to fend for themselves. If they survive (improbable), they get another chance. If they die, I will have less work.

Spices

Basil froze, but I will try again now that I know it is susceptible to late frost. Oregano got established, and some plants might survive the winter. If they do, I will plant them in some permanent spot. The weather was a bit too cold for ginger, but the plants survived, so I will keep them overwinter indoors and try again next year.

Flowers

I only grow gladioli as ornamental flowers, because my mother likes them. I will try to buy some new bulbs next year, because over the years, all colors died or were eaten by voles, except one.

And if time and space allow, I would love to grow some sunflowers. Not for food, but for bees and birds.

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And that’s all I have so far. These last few years, I managed to expand the cultivated area of my garden by circa 50 sqm every spring, and as long as I have the time and strength, I would like to continue that trend. It is better than mowing a useless lawn.

This is the last post about this year’s gardening endeavours. This is the approximate harvest:

Potatoes: 54,00 kg
Blueberries: 0,24 kg
Onions: 19,26 kg
Red beets: 1,00 kg
Garlic: 0,5 kg
Pumpkins: 20,27 kg
Pumpkin seeds: 0,05 kg
Bean pods: 6,98 kg
Figs: 0,68 kg
Beans: 7,05 kg
Grapes: 5,66 kg
Pears: 6,48 kg
Green peas: 4,50 kg
Apples: 20,47 kg
Strawberries: 1,96 kg
Sweet Corn: 0,40 kg
Horseradish: 0,91 kg
Raspberries: 20,29 kg
Carrots: 15,24 kg
Walnuts (shelled, dried): 10,51 kg
Bell peppers: 1,81 kg
Tomatoes: 27,12 kg
Radishes: 4,29 kg
Plums: 52,80 kg

The overall monetary value of all this produce at prices during the harvest would be approximately 1.000 €, but nearly one-third of that is due to the huge amount of raspberries that I had this year. Raspberries are expensive, but not particularly nutritious or useful. And of course, we processed all this further, so all the canned sauces, marmalades, etc., are probably double/triple that value in money.

Nutritionally, all this would account for circa 30% of one person’s yearly calories, but I could not eat all that, not even in one year – nearly a third of the calories are in the walnuts alone, and I cannot eat more than a handful of those once in a while. We gave away most of those anyway, or exchanged them for honey with a friend who is a beekeeper.

Strictly speaking, this was not a bad harvest, even though the pumpkins, corn, garlic, and onions were essentially failed crops, and the potatoes underperformed significantly. The garden is now covered in snow, and I will have a few months in which to be depressed and have to do other things. And to think about what I will do the next season.

Sciatic nerve problems often require exercise, so last week, I tried working in the garden a bit. Carefully, and slowly. And one of the works that I did was planting new hazelnuts in the coppice.

Jays, nutcrackers, and squirrels bury hazelnuts and acorns all over my garden. They do not manage to eat all they bury, so in the following spring a lot of them sprout in random places all ovah. When I am mowing the lawn and spot the tiny trees, I go around them and mark them with a willow rod or some other visible way to leave them be for the rest of the growing season. When planting the veggies, I also often find germinating nuts in the ground, which I carefully relocate to a temporary place for their first summer.

And in the fall, I dig them all out and plant them in the coppice. Hazel is especially valuable in there; it grows reasonably fast, it is good firewood, and the voles leave it alone, for whatever reason.

And this year I had a lot of tiny hazels around the bird feeder, the apple tree, and the apple tree stump. Overall, I found nearly twenty seedlings in my garden during the summer. I hope they fare well and start growing asap, although even under ideal conditions, it will take five to six years before I get any use out of them.

I gained one red-leaved hazel this way, too. It is in the coppice now for a few years and finally starts to grow fast.

This was the first time I was trying to grow butternut pumpkins, so I did not know exactly what to expect. I assumed they would behave similarly to the Hokkaido pumpkins. They did not. They started blooming late, and the first female flower showed up in the last week of August.

I did not want to leave anything to chance, so I pollinated it myself. As I did with all subsequent female flowers that showed up. There were several, all but one in the pumpkin & beetroot patch opposite my greenhouse. The plants in the three sisters system remained stunted, just like corn and Hokkaido pumpkin did. Which leads me to believe that not only weather, but also the compacted soil contributed to those crops failing.

With the plants blooming this late in the summer, I was prepared to write this crop completely off, but the fruits grew reasonably well, despite the weather getting colder.

Just a few days ago, the plants were still going strong. There was slight yellowing of the leaves, but the leaves on top were still fresh green.

The improvised trellis worked well, so I will use that in the future too. However, the plants grew more vigorously than I expected and completely overshadowed the beets. I will have some beets, but it won’t be much. I think that had I planted the three sisters system on this piece of land, it would be successful.

These last two nights we had the first autumn frost. Yesterday morning, the leaves of all the pumpkins wilted, and the plants were completely dead. I have harvested all the fruits at once.

Overall, it was circa 7,5 kg of fruit, with two fruits having circa 1,5 kg each. Those two will probably keep for at least a few days and ripen further indoors. The rest needs to be used up asap. We used 1,5 kg to make tomato-pumpkin sauce, 1 kg to make soup for immediate consumption, and for the rest, we will think of something. I would like to try pumpkin purée à la mashed potatoes.

What did I learn? I need to do my best to get the seeds to germinate earlier. The germination was delayed almost a month, and that made all the difference. I shall try to plant the seeds earlier in the year and use bigger containers, so the plants can grow more freely before I can plant them outdoors. I can try for the three sisters system, but I must do so on my prime soil. I will probably make and write down plans for next year once this season is over.